Tag: perfume

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Price Drop on our famous Frangipani essential oil

Recently we’ve been able to permanently reduce the price of our in-house Hydro distilled pure frangipani essential oil! In the past, the high price of this oil has kept it out of reach for many customers.

Due to the maturing of our own organic frangipani tree plantation at Aroma Sublime headquarters in Southwestern Vietnam, we are now able to permanently reduce the price of this world-class perfumers ingredient or stand-alone aromatic experience.

Aroma Sublime’s incredible organic hydro-distilled White Plumeria (frangipani) flower essential oil, a rare feat of all-natural low-temperature hydro-distillation by company founder Tony Bolton. A pure, natural floral extract that requires a full 7 kilograms of fresh organic white plumeria blossoms to produce only 1ml of sublime and heavenly essential oil. Intensely sweet and floral super-concentrate requiring only the tiniest amount for a total aromatic immersion. A must-have essential oil for professional perfumers and the serious aromatics aficionado.

Our aging and blending process gives this oil a depth, sweetness, and complexity unlike any other aromatic. Featuring top notes of muscat, peach, apricot, nectarine, honeydew, and bright spring wild honey. The heart opens into sultry night-blooming floral complexity; white lily and cereus, wild summer honey, Chardonnay, Sauternes, and fresh very ripe stonefruit (peach, nectarine, apricot). Patience reveals pure frangipani perfection deep into the drydown, a beautifully clear and complete impression of the original flower. Superb longevity. An absolutely epic aromatic experience.

Frangipani in antiquity: Plumeria flower relief in Penataran temple, Blitar, East Java, Indonesia. Estimated 500-700 years old.
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To barn or not to barn: Understanding so-called “barn” notes in Oud and perfumery

Oud, the essential oil of agarwood, offers us perhaps the most complexity and variety of any single-source natural aromatic in the world, the reason for its revered status and obsessive study by its devotees.

Barn. barn? barn!

Newcomers to the world of Oud might find this “barn” business to be an enigmatic and quirky bit of nomenclature, little used and rarely needed in more mainstream olfactory explorations. Indeed, we at Aroma Sublime think that the term barn is widely overused. At best, it’s a slightly lazy generalization; at worst, a means of excusing or obfuscating less desirable notes in the marketing of inferior Oud.

What do people really mean by barn when describing the aromatic notes particular to Oud?

The descriptive barn might encompass a variety of pleasant or pleasantly harmonized animalic notes, variations of human body odor, pheromones, straw, horse, sheep, dog, civet, musk, horse`s stable, the full range of leather notes, light fermented notes, astringency, a whole palette of woody notes, cheese in all its variety, grassy green notes, sheep’s wool, lanolin, and many many more.

The controversy arises, however, around some other aromatic notes that many novices or casual aficionados might not dare to declare openly; fecal, urinous, ammonia, “cat box”, fermented, rotten, necrotic, rancid, or intense human body odor in all its variations. We deign to propose that the majority of customers should be informed when especially intense notes of controversy feature strongly in an Oud. We believe you should know what you are investing in.

We do not name these aspects in any spirit of judgment or dismissal, but rather in the spirit of clarity and transparency. We are not here to “yuck anyone’s yum” or to pass judgment on a matter that is highly subjective on an individual and cultural level. But we think precision is important. A lack of precision and transparency in the Oud culture at large, we are convinced, has permanently dissuaded many potential Oud lovers in their earliest explorations.

Its essential to note that many places in the world where Oud bears its longest and greatest histories, strongly favor all the aromas that the term barn encompasses. Without question, there are excellent Ouds that are all about barn. However, we feel that even in an Oud culture where everything-barn is beloved and extolled, there exists a spectrum of quality and degrees of refinement that the customer deserves to be informed about. Horse & stable, or horse manure? Yes, we think you deserve to know!

The important question for us is, are these more challenging aromatic features more likely to persuade or dissuade? Will they be most generally experienced as pleasant or unpleasant, alluring or off-putting? Its there a harmony and a dance, or is there a slap in the face?! How and for how long do they mingle and interact with the other aromatic notes in a particular Oud?

On the other side of the spectrum, there are those who might be inclined to reject the possibility of these more controversial aromatic notes being in any way pleasant or desirable. We will let you in on the not-so-secret secret in the perfume industry both contemporarily and historically: These “taboo” aromatic notes will almost universally delight and seduce the human nose when they are carefully woven into a scent formula; artfully, subtly, as punctuation or sub-text rather than an overt theme. In many cases, they are mere glimmers in a well-designed blend, precisely sub-perceptual and therefore subconscious in their effect.

This subtle application of these more challenging aromatic notes translating directly to wider acceptance and appreciation generalizes well in Oud as well, the difference being that the variations in Oud are more a result of inherent natural chemistry, and less the result of precision human formulation (as in the case of perfume, especially modern synthetic perfumery). This natural occurrence, which we help to isolate and express through distillation, is part of the unique allure that Oud offers.

In conclusion, we feel that Barn has become an all too common euphemism and catch-all for all of the more challenging aromatic features that Oud might bring. Barn is often is a word carefully chosen by marketers to obfuscate an excess of controversial aromatic notes, especially when they feature excessively or disharmoniously in a lower-quality Oud’s aromatic spectrum. Experienced Oud aficionados will know exactly what we mean. Barn is too often used as an excuse to sell you a disappointing Oud.

Aroma Sublime, A Different Approach to Oud

We offer a very clear description of our Oud oils including how the aroma transforms through the drydown. We are not afraid to list less popular or more challenging aromatic notes and discuss how they present in our Oud oils. If they are present at all.

We do our best to offer a careful and precise approach to everything “barn” might encompass. We specialize in Oud featuring very moderate and well-harmonized “barn” aspects on the more accessible side of the spectrum. We are not afraid to discuss these in detail.

We are known for cleaner, sweeter, rounder Oud oils from 100% wild agarwood that is not fermented or burned. We are known for cleaner-spectrum Oud oils, with smooth and round aromatic features. We are known for our careful selection of premium wild agarwood, our passion for gentle traditional distillation techniques, and our patient aging protocols.

All this results in a more reliable Oud experience.

No euphemisms and vagueries.

No excuses.

Just reliable Oud.

Browse our carefully curated Oud collection.

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The Scent of Natural Agarwood Jewelry, Full Disclosure

We have recently made the cautious decision to provide CULTIVATED and naturally SCENT-ENHANCED Agarwood beads in order to provide an affordable option to our customers looking for beautiful Agarwood beads with a pleasant and prominent aroma.

Natural Enhancement

Natural Agarwood resin is a byproduct of the essential oil distillation process in the cultivated Oud (Agarwood essential oil) industry. Natural Agarwood resin imparts an aroma that is more prominent and persistent when compared to what natural untreated Agarwood would normally offer. Natural Agarwood resin isolates and intensifies primarily the leather, wood, and tobacco aromatic notes that feature prominently in the aromatic spectrum of most Oud and Agarwood. It also protects the wood from the rigors of wear; moisture and friction, and also deepens the color of the wood. We think these naturally enhanced resin-infused agarwood beadworks offer an affordable and high-quality option to our customers. Let us know what you think.

We also plan to offer a selection of untreated Agarwood jewelry, from both cultivated and wild origins. Offering exclusively 100% Wild Agarwood would be our true preference, but the availability of such high-quality items is sporadic and the price is ever-increasing. We would love to hear more from you about what you would be interested in seeing in our inventory, as this is a new addition to our offerings.

The Truth about Jewelry Grade Agarwood

The truth is that most natural untreated Agarwood including 100% wild Agarwood does not project aroma consistently or persistently. The aroma tends to be light and intermittent. It tends to produce slightly more aroma when rubbed or warmed. But will not fill a room with its aroma or perfume one’s skin to the same degree that an Oud oil or burned Agarwood incense would.

If you think about it logically this makes sense. There is a finite amount of aromatic volatiles in a given unit of wood, even the very best wood. If the aroma is intense and constant, these must be a greater amount of aromatic volatiles leaving the wood. The more volatiles dispersed, the more likely the smell will fade, and even disappear, with time.

When we burn Agarwood as incense, we are intentionally releasing all the volatiles at once by heating the wood. The leftover solids will be almost entirely devoid of the coveted aromatic volatiles it previously contained.

Even the very best and most expensive raw untreated Agarwood such as Kinam (Kynam, Kyara) does not produce a constant room-filling aroma at room temperature.

We find that public expectations have been ruined by fakery in the Agarwood business.

We notice that in general people’s expectations for the aroma of natural Agarwood have been overblown and ruined by the abundance of artificially enhanced Agarwood products on the open market. Deceptions that range from the entirely synthetic and artificial, to the non-disclosure of natural enhancements of Agarwood aroma such as treatment with resin or oil.

People have become used to scent-enhanced products which will simply always smell stronger than natural raw untreated Agarwood.

Outright Fraud?

Many, if not most, of the “natural agarwood” products on the open market today are chemically enhanced works of outright fraud.

Others are naturally enhanced products with natural resin or Oud oil. For example: Its a very common traditional practice to rub some Oud oil into a fine piece of Agarwood jewelry to protect and care for the wood as well as to enhance the scent. There is nothing wrong with this as long as vendors disclose the practice to their customers.

Natural Enhancements Only

We believe that certain natural enhancements are acceptable, but that it is essential that vendors and crafters in the industry are honest about such enhancements. We accept only certain natural enhancements such as treating wood with natural Agarwood resin or natural Oud oil, and we will always disclose the specific practice to our customers. As well we will always be crystal clear on Wild, Semi-Wild, or Cultivated designations for all our Agarwood products.

SUBITISM 3.0 incense burner incense heater electric variable heat adjustment and international voltage raw incense burner fine handcrafted

SUBITISM fine incense burner/heater is individually handcrafted to perfection by Abdenbi of France, artisanal perfumer and craftsman.
Offers variable and precise heat adjustment for precision burning of the finest raw incense materials including agarwood, kynam, sandalwood, frankincense, elemi, myrrh, copal, and many more. Operates on any voltage (100-240v) anywhere in the world and comes with socket adapter for your country.

I was a client before I was the distributor for this product. Its simply the best product of this type I have found. We are proud to be one of only 2 distributors of this product worldwide.

ONE YEAR limited WARRANTY on unit functionality. (see additional details below)
Includes worldwide trackable shipping.

COMES WITH:
Burner box unit
Adapter box and cord with temperature adjustment dial
50 mica plates

ONE YEAR WARRANTY on unit functionality provided that the outer parts of the unit have been well taken care of and not exposed to rough handling, abuse, dirt and debris, or water; and provided that the unit has not been tampered with internally in any way. Warranty does not cover any unit with any physical damage to outer casings, cover, any type of water damage; a unit with a burner plate that is physically damaged in any way, a burner plate that is dirty or has been allowed to come into direct contact with incense materials during use. (Use the burning plates and trays provided.) Warranty does not cover damage by fire, or any effects of incense materials catching fire as a result of burning incense materials at excessively high temperature or for extended periods of time. Warranty is offered and claims effected by the original craftsperson only, not the shop. We do our very best to assist in any warranty claims – we want you to be happy with this handcrafted artisanal product – however this warranty is limited to the repair or replacement of the unit by the original craftsperson. Warranty does not cover refund; rather the warranty covers repair or replacement only, at our discretion and the discretion of the original craftsperson.

CAUTION: never leave the burner unattended while it is turned on. sparks of flames may occur unexpectedly in your incense material. the unit may overheat or start a fire if left unattended for an extended period of time. rest the unit on a heat resistant surface while using as some heat will radiate to the bottom of the unit. we recommend that you unplug the unit while it is unattended or not in use. Disclaimer and copyright apply to this product and its description: http://www.pierreblack.com/copyright-and-disclaimer

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ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

• INTERNATIONAL SHIPMENTS (Europe, USA, Canada, etc) generally DO NOT PAY additional customs fees. We make our best effort to provide the correct documentation for your specific country to reduce or eliminate customs duties and taxes.

• Pierre Black, Tony Bolton, and Aroma Sublime partnership…
I am honoured to have partnered with Aroma Sublime and the legendary Tony Bolton to bring you some of the finest artisanal hydro-distilled essential oils in the world. Aroma Sublime specializes in limited-edition single-estate small-batch distillations of Oud (Agarwood), Sandalwood, Frangipani, Rose, and others. Offering a selection of their own exclusive on-site distillations, or a small, carefully curated selection of fine artisanal oils from carefully chosen suppliers that we laboratory test for purity, Aroma Sublime has a reputation for quality, purity, and simplicity. Always solvent-free, Aroma Sublime supplies only verified pure hydro-distilled essential oils of the highest quality from our own still or from trusted and verified artisanal suppliers. If we don’t oversee production personally, our products are lab tested for purity. visit: https://www.aromasublime.com and https://pierreblack.com

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Subitism Incense Heater: the finest precision electric incensoir

Subitism Incense Heater

the finest precision electric encensoir

SUBITISM fine incense burner/heater
individually handcrafted to perfection by Abdenbi of France, an artisanal perfumer and craftsman. We are proud to be one of only 2 distributors of this product worldwide!
100-240v WORLDWIDE functionality!

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We are sure you will love this product. It’s simply the best product of this type we have found for precision heating of high-quality raw incense materials. Skip the mess and inconvenience of charcoal. Experience instant precision temperature control and get the most out of your valuable and delicate raw aromatics. Offers variable and precise heat adjustment for precision burning of the finest raw incense materials including agarwood, kynam, sandalwood, frankincense, elemi, myrrh, copal, and many more. Operates on any voltage (100-240v) anywhere in the world and comes with a socket adapter for your country if available. Please be patient. This item is in high demand and each item is handcrafted just for you. We generally ship this item within TWO WEEKS of ordering. Once shipped you will have your burner in 2-5 days anywhere with worldwide trackable shipping. This item ships direct from France where it is handcrafted just for you.

ONE YEAR limited WARRANTY on unit functionality. (see additional details below)
• COMES WITH:
– Burner box unit (Box dimensions: 150 x 100 x 72 mm)
– Adapter box and cord with temperature adjustment dial (100-240v worldwide)
– Adapter plug for your country if available (all major continents/countries)
– 50 mica plates
– 3 round mica plates
– tweezer for safely handling incense materials
– blower brush for cleaning the unit

Common Questions about using the burner…
• SETTINGS: Many people ask us about what burner setting to use for different materials. The short answer is that there is no correct setting for each material. Its very subjective; very much a matter of personal preference, and will also change based on environmental factors and sample size, even with the same material.
The general rule for best results? Always start at a low temperature and slowly increase the temperature paying close attention to what is happening visually to the material on the burner plate as well as the resulting aroma. The purpose of having a burner of this quality is to slowly, gently, and incrementally heat your finer incense materials, slowly releasing layers of aromatic nuance and complexity, without actual combustion and the resulting burnt aromas. You will simply get more value from your fine aromatics. Since the actual temperature of the heater element does not exactly correspond to the voltage/knob setting across different machines, and may vary as well in your individual machine based on environmental factors, no one can suggest useful guidelines based on the knob/voltage setting. Instead, we recommend experimenting with each material on your own burner and using your own preferences, results, and intuitions to determine the “best settings” for each material you use. Remember; start low and slowly increase the temperature until you get the results you want.
• RESINS and other “messy” incense materials: For burning resins such as frankincense or copal, we suggest you use a little tray that you fashion from aluminum foil. The tray can be placed directly on a mica plate and then on the burner element. The aluminum foil keeps the melting resin contained, protecting your machine, while efficiently heating the resin to the preferred burning temperature.

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Warranty and Cautions…
• ONE YEAR WARRANTY on unit functionality provided that the outer parts of the unit have been well taken care of and not exposed to rough handling, abuse, dirt and debris, or water; and provided that the unit has not been tampered with internally in any way. Warranty does not cover any unit with any physical damage to outer casings, cover, any type of water damage; a unit with a burner plate that is physically damaged in any way, a burner plate that is dirty or has been allowed to come into direct contact with incense materials during use. (Use the burning plates and trays provided.) Warranty does not cover damage by fire or any effects of incense materials catching fire as a result of burning incense materials at excessively high temperatures or for extended periods of time. Warranty is offered and claims effected by the original craftsperson only, not the shop. We do our very best to assist in any warranty claims, we want you to be happy with this handcrafted artisanal product, however, this warranty is limited to the repair or replacement of the unit by the original craftsperson. Warranty does not cover refund; rather the warranty covers repair or replacement only, at our discretion and the discretion of the original craftsperson.
• CAUTION: never leave the burner unattended while it is turned on. sparks of flames may occur unexpectedly in your incense material. the unit may overheat or start a fire if left unattended for an extended period of time. rest the unit on a heat-resistant surface while using it, as some heat will radiate to the bottom of the unit. We recommend that you unplug the unit while it is unattended or not in use.

See the Shopping Page for current pricing.

General Operations Update, Tony Bolton and Aroma Sublime

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Originally Posted on Ouddict, the world’s largest Artisanal Oud Forum.

Hi Everyone.
I’m Pierre Black and I am here representing Tony Bolton and Aroma Sublime, formerly Agar Aromas Vietnam.
Since the company’s name change in late 2019, the chaos around the early pandemic, followed by Tony’s stroke and other health challenges, there has been a lot of speculation and misinformation about the company, as well as an outpouring of concern for Tony.

I’m here now to simply provide a complete update, and to announce our renewed participation here at Ouddict.

1. Why the name change?
I arrived in Vietnam and first met Tony in 2019 when he had just expanded the product line to include his in-house distilled, now famous, sandalwood and frangipani oils, and was looking for some help and a rebrand that reflected these changes and also added a little polish to the presentation of what was already a magnificent and highly-acclaimed curated artisanal Oud collection. We developed the new name and branding changes together, on-location, in late 2019. (We had such a fun time as well, and I have wonderful memories of this time!)

2. How’s Tony doing now?
Tony is doing ok and is healthier now than he was in 2020. However, the consequences of his stroke last year have left him less able to be present and engaged online especially when it comes to typing and texting. He still oversees all operations at the company’s beautiful headquarters in southwestern Vietnam right on the Mekong River near the Cambodian border. Tony has been really touched by the concern and well-wishes expressed by so many of you in the Oud community and regrets that he has not been able to keep up with all replies. For those of you who know Tony personally and want to connect with him, it’s much easier to arrange a video chat than it is to expect an extended text chat.

3. Tony’s wife Tha.
Tha is an absolute force of nature and has been through incredible challenges since Tony’s stroke, not only taking care of Tony, but also handling most of the physical work around distillation and order fulfillment. What many people don’t realize is that she has also become quite the Oud expert working alongside Tony since the very beginning. She is now the engine behind Aroma Sublime and deserves our trust, support, and credit for keeping the Vietnam operation afloat during these extremely challenging times. I want to acknowledge her incredible efforts and expertise. Since Tha has started taking on more of the distillations singlehandedly lately, she has produced some absolutely stunning Oud. She is the behind-the-scenes beating-heart of the operation today, and I’m so excited to release some incredible new Oud oils soon that are made entirely by her skilled hands and wise nose.

4. What is my role here?
I realize Tony is a legend in the Oud world, and I have no illusions about filling his shoes. While indeed I am now a partner in the business, I see myself much more as an apprentice in a support role when it comes to the Oud side of the business. When it comes to Oud and Agarwood I’m simply here to facilitate your access to their Oud and Agarwood collection. I do have my own line of other products and you will see these fully integrated into the Aroma Sublime product line, but you will also always know exactly what’s what. I will not be focussing much on Oud in my own work until I am able to return to Vietnam when I hope to work again on-site with Tony and Tha. For now, they remain focussed on Oud and Frangipani oil production. While I am focussing on distilling resins like frankincense and a few special Japanese raw materials, as well as making some perfume and skincare products. Although I am most often the public face of the company now, and I am living in Japan for now, we do operate as a team and are always in close contact. As in the past, we are committed to integrity and transparency in all that we do here at Aroma Sublime.

5. Who am I?
What I bring to the table is my extensive background as a multidisciplinary Naturopath, aromatherapist, and herbalist and a particular love of working with aromatics and herbals that also provide sensory pleasure and joy as we use them. Through the pandemic, here in Japan, I have taken a deep dive into distillation and perfumery, blending Tony’s mentorship with my own curiosities and special interests. I have been getting some spectacular results with excellent feedback from customers and a few industry experts.
My personal “Oud awakening” began completely by chance in Thailand in 2013. I fell in love with Oud there and the rest is history, as they say. I have been chasing oud ever since, but my professional involvement really only took hold in 2019 when I started working with Tony. I’m not here pretending to be an expert on Oud. I have some decent knowledge and experience in the Oud world, and a decent nose, but more importantly, I just get really excited about this stuff! I feel very fortunate to have had a couple of months living on-site at Aroma Sublime headquarters deep in the Vietnamese countryside working directly with Tony and Tha. I have learned so much working with them when it comes to Oud itself and the art of distillation! As well, importantly, I feel we have much more than a business relationship, I now think of them as family.

6. Why am I in Japan now, and not on-site in Vietnam?
Just before the pandemic, I had plans to build a life in Vietnam and continue working extensively with Tony and Tha on location. Pandemic-related travel restrictions suddenly prevented this.
I was on a quick visa renewal trip to Thailand, where I was also showcasing our products at a conference. During this trip the seriousness of the pandemic took hold and I was suddenly not able to return to Vietnam indefinitely. I was very lucky to slip into Japan just 2 days before they also closed their borders. Fortunately, I have many friends and contacts here in Japan, as I have been working with some Zen meditation retreat centers here since 2006. Since my arrival here at the beginning of the pandemic, I have been volunteering at a mostly empty Zen center. The silver lining of the situation is that, in collaboration with the monk here, we decided to start doing some small-scale distillation here, and have had access to some absolutely epic raw materials.
It is with deep sadness and concern, however, that I have not been able to return to Vietnam to help Tony and Tha on site, especially when Tony’s health deteriorated. We are all looking forward to better times and my return to Vietnam and I am relieved that Tony’s health has improved somewhat since last year.

7. Our Oud collection now…
Our selection and production process for Oud oils has not changed at all. It’s still a carefully curated small collection of 100% pure, mostly wild Oud oils, that we are incredibly proud of. More than half our products are in-house distillations, and most of these are single-tree distillations where we oversee the provenance of the whole tree right from the forest. The small number of outsourced Oud oils in our collection are from reputable artisanal producers and are lab tested for purity. Most of our oils are aged 1 year or more so there is a delay before new distillations go to market. Tha handles 90% of this work these days. While I have the great pleasure of testing, discussing, and promoting the oils, I’m not involved in production. In fact, most of our Oud selection is exactly the same as it was in 2019, with the addition of only a few new oils since then. All of this reflects our commitment to careful curation and quality assurance.

We are feeling optimistic about what is to come, and eager to participate here at Ouddict.

Thanks again to everyone who has supported us in the past!
We really appreciate it, and look forward to serving you in the future.

Pierre Black,
for Tony Bolton and the Aroma Sublime team.

See the Shopping Page or our Etsy Shop