New in the shop: Limited supply of traditional 108-bead wild agarwood malas.
Pierre is back in Vietnam, always on the hunt for new products that meet our high-quality standards. We individually hand-select our 100% wild agarwood malas from carefully vetted local Viet crafters. Each mala is slightly different and each small batch of malas is unique since it comes from a single wild tree. We carefully hand-select the very best ones for our customers.
New Bottle Design For the New Year…
And here a quick look at out new bottles for 2024. A new look with the same luxury features; solid crystal bottle, glass dipstick, and silicone seal. Our new cap design allows the dipstick to rest at an angle when placed on a flat surface, without the dipstick touching the surface itself. Also it can be placed upside down on its head. Its this kind of attention to detail we think will enhance your experience of our world class specialty aromatics.
• vintage: distilled in October 2022 from a group of a few mature trees growing close together in the wild forest lowlands of the Pursat region of Cambodia. Distilled in steel with a glass collector. Dedicated and verified artisan distiller.
• scent highlights: Smooth and steady classic Cambodian mostly sweet and gently masculine-leaning Oud. Light tobacco, dark honey, natural leather, cooked/dried stonefruit, and new wood are thematic here.
• scent description: This very classic Cambodian Oud stays strong, smooth, and steady through its glowing golden unfolding. Some interesting notes feature strongly at the outset; molasses, autumn leaves, red ginseng, horse & stable (clean, moderate). These notes quickly relax and harmonize the primary and more consistent notes that define and carry this Oud; blonde pipe tobacco, natural suede leather, buckwheat honey, dried apricot, peach jam, sultana raisins, and freshly cut new lumber. Expands and mellows through the drydown into a golden peachy-marmalade and carpenter’s shop aura, with most of the other notes settling comfortably into the background.
• notes of controversy: Minimal. A warm touch of “horse and stable” without being “barny” in a challenging way. The red ginseng and molasses notes bring a slight bitterness to the overall bouquet, mostly in the first hour of drydown.
• species: A. crassna
BLACK NAGA • 100% wild Cambodian Oud • Kampot, Cambodia
• vintage: distilled in early December 2022 from one mature tree in the wild forest lowlands of the Kampot region of Southern Cambodia. Distilled in steel with a glass collector. Dedicated and verified artisan distiller.
• scent highlights: A rich, deep, complex, smooth, clean, gently masculine-leaning Oud. Whiskey, dark pipe tobacco, sweet brown spices, lots of dried fruit.
• scent description: This gorgeous classic Cambodian Oud opens with fine smooth malty-caramel whiskey, dark pipe tobacco, simmering cassia and nutmeg, vanilla pod, raisin, and dried apricot, overripe black cherry, apple cider, chamomile flower, and natural licorice root. It has an interesting understated mineralic and black soil note and an elegant, refined, hint of smoke. Most interestingly perhaps, fresh blueberry notes occasionally emerge in the early drydown. Even with all this complexity at the start, the top notes dance seamlessly and smoothly together. Nothing sharp or undesirable. There is only a touch of leather present in this Oud, a soft natural leather that lingers in the background and remains present through all of the drydown. With some time, this Oud relaxes into a slow sweet cruise, showcasing mainly buttery dried fruits and simmering sweet brown spices; dried apricot, a medley of raisins, dried black fig, sweet baking spices like earthy cinnamon, cassia, allspice, and nutmeg; applesauce, brown sugar and butter. The finish is sweet and smooth Oud glory that lasts and lasts.
• special notes: we think this is a special Oud that will age brilliantly. We are eager to see what happens over time.
• notes of controversy: none. No rough edges. No barn. Even the slightly-too-sharp whiskey note right out of the bottle softens within seconds. Smoke, sometimes a less desirable note for some customers, is in harmony here in the most elegant and understated way. A risk worth taking for those wary of smokier Ouds.
Recently we’ve been able to permanently reduce the price of our in-house Hydro distilled pure frangipani essential oil! In the past, the high price of this oil has kept it out of reach for many customers.
Due to the maturing of our own organic frangipani tree plantation at Aroma Sublime headquarters in Southwestern Vietnam, we are now able to permanently reduce the price of this world-class perfumers ingredient or stand-alone aromatic experience.
Aroma Sublime’s incredible organic hydro-distilled White Plumeria (frangipani) flower essential oil, a rare feat of all-natural low-temperature hydro-distillation by company founder Tony Bolton. A pure, natural floral extract that requires a full 7 kilograms of fresh organic white plumeria blossoms to produce only 1ml of sublime and heavenly essential oil. Intensely sweet and floral super-concentrate requiring only the tiniest amount for a total aromatic immersion. A must-have essential oil for professional perfumers and the serious aromatics aficionado.
Our aging and blending process gives this oil a depth, sweetness, and complexity unlike any other aromatic. Featuring top notes of muscat, peach, apricot, nectarine, honeydew, and bright spring wild honey. The heart opens into sultry night-blooming floral complexity; white lily and cereus, wild summer honey, Chardonnay, Sauternes, and fresh very ripe stonefruit (peach, nectarine, apricot). Patience reveals pure frangipani perfection deep into the drydown, a beautifully clear and complete impression of the original flower. Superb longevity. An absolutely epic aromatic experience.
Frangipani in antiquity: Plumeria flower relief in Penataran temple, Blitar, East Java, Indonesia. Estimated 500-700 years old.
Oud, the essential oil of agarwood, offers us perhaps the most complexity and variety of any single-source natural aromatic in the world, the reason for its revered status and obsessive study by its devotees.
Barn. barn? barn!
Newcomers to the world of Oud might find this “barn” business to be an enigmatic and quirky bit of nomenclature, little used and rarely needed in more mainstream olfactory explorations. Indeed, we at Aroma Sublime think that the term barn is widely overused. At best, it’s a slightly lazy generalization; at worst, a means of excusing or obfuscating less desirable notes in the marketing of inferior Oud.
What do people really mean by barn when describing the aromatic notes particular to Oud?
The descriptive barn might encompass a variety of pleasant or pleasantly harmonized animalic notes, variations of human body odor, pheromones, straw, horse, sheep, dog, civet, musk, horse`s stable, the full range of leather notes, light fermented notes, astringency, a whole palette of woody notes, cheese in all its variety, grassy green notes, sheep’s wool, lanolin, and many many more.
The controversy arises, however, around some other aromatic notes that many novices or casual aficionados might not dare to declare openly; fecal, urinous, ammonia, “cat box”, fermented, rotten, necrotic, rancid, or intense human body odor in all its variations. We deign to propose that the majority of customers should be informed when especially intense notes of controversy feature strongly in an Oud. We believe you should know what you are investing in.
We do not name these aspects in any spirit of judgment or dismissal, but rather in the spirit of clarity and transparency. We are not here to “yuck anyone’s yum” or to pass judgment on a matter that is highly subjective on an individual and cultural level. But we think precision is important. A lack of precision and transparency in the Oud culture at large, we are convinced, has permanently dissuaded many potential Oud lovers in their earliest explorations.
Its essential to note that many places in the world where Oud bears its longest and greatest histories, strongly favor all the aromas that the term barn encompasses. Without question, there are excellent Ouds that are all about barn. However, we feel that even in an Oud culture where everything-barn is beloved and extolled, there exists a spectrum of quality and degrees of refinement that the customer deserves to be informed about. Horse & stable, or horse manure? Yes, we think you deserve to know!
The important question for us is, are these more challenging aromatic features more likely to persuade or dissuade? Will they be most generally experienced as pleasant or unpleasant, alluring or off-putting? Its there a harmony and a dance, or is there a slap in the face?! How and for how long do they mingle and interact with the other aromatic notes in a particular Oud?
On the other side of the spectrum, there are those who might be inclined to reject the possibility of these more controversial aromatic notes being in any way pleasant or desirable. We will let you in on the not-so-secret secret in the perfume industry both contemporarily and historically: These “taboo” aromatic notes will almost universally delight and seduce the human nose when they are carefully woven into a scent formula; artfully, subtly, as punctuation or sub-text rather than an overt theme. In many cases, they are mere glimmers in a well-designed blend, precisely sub-perceptual and therefore subconscious in their effect.
This subtle application of these more challenging aromatic notes translating directly to wider acceptance and appreciation generalizes well in Oud as well, the difference being that the variations in Oud are more a result of inherent natural chemistry, and less the result of precision human formulation (as in the case of perfume, especially modern synthetic perfumery). This natural occurrence, which we help to isolate and express through distillation, is part of the unique allure that Oud offers.
In conclusion, we feel that Barn has become an all too common euphemism and catch-all for all of the more challenging aromatic features that Oud might bring. Barn is often is a word carefully chosen by marketers to obfuscate an excess of controversial aromatic notes, especially when they feature excessively or disharmoniously in a lower-quality Oud’s aromatic spectrum. Experienced Oud aficionados will know exactly what we mean. Barn is too often used as an excuse to sell you a disappointing Oud.
Aroma Sublime, A Different Approach to Oud
We offer a very clear description of our Oud oils including how the aroma transforms through the drydown. We are not afraid to list less popularor more challenging aromatic notes and discuss how they present in our Oud oils. If they are present at all.
We do our best to offer a careful and precise approach to everything “barn” might encompass. We specialize in Oud featuring very moderate and well-harmonized “barn” aspects on the more accessible side of the spectrum. We are not afraid to discuss these in detail.
We are known for cleaner, sweeter, rounder Oud oils from 100% wild agarwood that is not fermented or burned. We are known for cleaner-spectrum Oud oils, with smooth and round aromatic features. We are known for our careful selection of premium wild agarwood, our passion for gentle traditional distillation techniques, and our patient aging protocols.
All this results in a more reliable Oud experience.
For centuries, the Damascena rose has been revered for its beauty and fragrance. But beyond its aesthetic appeal lies a precious oil with numerous health benefits. Known as Damascena rose essential oil, this oil is obtained through steam distillation of the rose petals and has been the subject of numerous clinical studies that confirm its therapeutic properties.
One of the most well-known benefits of Damascena rose essential oil is its ability to reduce anxiety and promote relaxation. Clinical studies have found that the oil has a calming effect on the nervous system, making it a natural remedy for anxiety, stress, and insomnia. Inhaling the oil has been found to reduce blood pressure, heart rate, and cortisol levels, all of which are indicators of a relaxed state.
Another way that Damascena rose essential oil can benefit the mind and body is by promoting a positive mood. Studies have shown that the oil can act as a natural antidepressant and anxiolytic agent, with some researchers suggesting that it may be as effective as prescription medication in treating depression and anxiety. Inhaling the oil has been found to increase feelings of happiness, reduce negative emotions, and improve overall well-being.
But the benefits of Damascena rose essential oil don’t stop there. The oil has been found to possess analgesic properties, making it a natural remedy for pain relief. Clinical studies have shown that applying the oil topically can reduce pain and discomfort associated with headaches, menstrual cramps, and muscle soreness.
The oil’s therapeutic properties also extend to the skin. Damascena rose essential oil has been found to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties that can benefit the skin in a variety of ways. Clinical studies have shown that applying the oil topically can reduce inflammation, protect against UV damage, and promote healthy, glowing skin.
Finally, Damascena rose essential oil has been found to have antimicrobial properties that can help to boost the immune system. Studies have shown that the oil can be effective in treating respiratory infections, coughs, colds, and flu, making it a natural and safe alternative to prescription medication.
In conclusion, the health benefits of Damascena rose essential oil are numerous and backed by clinical research. From reducing anxiety and promoting relaxation to relieving pain and boosting immunity, this precious oil is a natural and effective remedy for a variety of ailments. So why not indulge in the sweet and delicate fragrance of Damascena rose essential oil, and let its numerous benefits work their magic on your mind, body, and soul?
We have recently made the cautious decision to provide CULTIVATED and naturally SCENT-ENHANCED Agarwood beads in order to provide an affordable option to our customers looking for beautiful Agarwood beads with a pleasant and prominent aroma.
Natural Enhancement
Natural Agarwood resin is a byproduct of the essential oil distillation process in the cultivated Oud (Agarwood essential oil) industry. Natural Agarwood resin imparts an aroma that is more prominent and persistent when compared to what natural untreated Agarwood would normally offer. Natural Agarwood resin isolates and intensifies primarily the leather, wood, and tobacco aromatic notes that feature prominently in the aromatic spectrum of most Oud and Agarwood. It also protects the wood from the rigors of wear; moisture and friction, and also deepens the color of the wood. We think these naturally enhanced resin-infused agarwood beadworks offer an affordable and high-quality option to our customers. Let us know what you think.
We also plan to offer a selection of untreated Agarwood jewelry, from both cultivated and wild origins. Offering exclusively 100% Wild Agarwood would be our true preference, but the availability of such high-quality items is sporadic and the price is ever-increasing. We would love to hear more from you about what you would be interested in seeing in our inventory, as this is a new addition to our offerings.
The Truth about Jewelry Grade Agarwood
The truth is that most natural untreated Agarwood including 100% wild Agarwood does not project aroma consistently or persistently. The aroma tends to be light and intermittent. It tends to produce slightly more aroma when rubbed or warmed. But will not fill a room with its aroma or perfume one’s skin to the same degree that an Oud oil or burned Agarwood incense would.
If you think about it logically this makes sense. There is a finite amount of aromatic volatiles in a given unit of wood, even the very best wood. If the aroma is intense and constant, these must be a greater amount of aromatic volatiles leaving the wood. The more volatiles dispersed, the more likely the smell will fade, and even disappear, with time.
When we burn Agarwood as incense, we are intentionally releasing all the volatiles at once by heating the wood. The leftover solids will be almost entirely devoid of the coveted aromatic volatiles it previously contained.
Even the very best and most expensive raw untreated Agarwood such as Kinam (Kynam, Kyara) does not produce a constant room-filling aroma at room temperature.
We find that public expectations have been ruined by fakery in the Agarwood business.
We notice that in general people’s expectations for the aroma of natural Agarwood have been overblown and ruined by the abundance of artificially enhanced Agarwood products on the open market. Deceptions that range from the entirely synthetic and artificial, to the non-disclosure of natural enhancements of Agarwood aroma such as treatment with resin or oil.
People have become used to scent-enhanced products which will simply always smell stronger than natural raw untreated Agarwood.
Outright Fraud?
Many, if not most, of the “natural agarwood” products on the open market today are chemically enhanced works of outright fraud.
Others are naturally enhanced products with natural resin or Oud oil. For example: Its a very common traditional practice to rub some Oud oil into a fine piece of Agarwood jewelry to protect and care for the wood as well as to enhance the scent. There is nothing wrong with this as long as vendors disclose the practice to their customers.
Natural Enhancements Only
We believe that certain natural enhancements are acceptable, but that it is essential that vendors and crafters in the industry are honest about such enhancements. We accept only certain natural enhancements such as treating wood with natural Agarwood resin or natural Oud oil, and we will always disclose the specific practice to our customers. As well we will always be crystal clear on Wild, Semi-Wild, or Cultivated designations for all our Agarwood products.
